Tamed Exotics
We are USDA-licensed breeders of friendly, healthy & lineaged exotic pets! Furthermore, all our exotic pets are lineaged and have been selectively bred for health, temperament, conformation, and color. Our babies are socialized daily to ensure you are getting a tame and friendly pet!
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FAQs
With over fifteen years of experience caring for sweet, healthy sugar gliders, Tamed Exotics has come to deeply understand these wonderful animals. Whether it be their breeding, health concerns, diet, bonding information, shipping, or anything else, we have a wealth of knowledge at our disposal, and we love to share! We realize that sugar gliders are a unique pet in the pet world, so there are quite a few questions about them. For the starting sugar glider lover and the seasoned glider veteran alike, we aim to provide the information and support your need for the animals you love.
Below, you'll find a list of commonly asked questions and their answers, broken up into categories for your convenience. If you have a question that isn't answered here, please don't hesitate to contact us and let us know. We'll be more than happy to answer any questions you have, and it will help us keep our list up to date! Glide on!
Sugar Glider Basics
A sugar glider (petaurus breviceps) is a small, nocturnal marsupial. Sugar gliders are in the same family as the kangaroo and koala bear, so they also have a pouch in which their babies grow. They get the name “sugar glider,” from two facts: They feed on sweet gums and saps, among other things, in the wild, giving them the first name, “sugar.” The “glider” portion comes from the distinctive flap of skin (patagium) connecting their front and hind legs on both sides, allowing them to glide surprising distances from branch to branch among the trees. They are social animals that live in colonies and love communicating with their colony mates, so we recommend that they live with at least one other sugar glider.
Yes, they are. The term “sugar glider” is the commonly accepted name for the animal around the world, while “sugar bear” is more of a marketing term used by particular businesses and organizations. When searching for supplies and support for these animals, we highly recommend searching under “sugar glider,” as this provides a wider, and often more accurate, source of information.
They do make excellent pets and loving members of the family, but they are “exotic” pets, they are a unique pet, and very different from a dog or cat. Like a smaller pet, they should be kept in a cage at night for their own safety. Because of their size, they should always be supervised if they are around other pets. They require more time and understanding than a “traditional” pet. Through your care & attention sugar gliders will love and bond to you. They will joyfully nap in your pocket or on your shoulder, and love to take treats from your hand!A: They do make excellent pets and loving members of the family, but they are “exotic” pets, they are a unique pet, and very different from a dog or cat. Like a smaller pet, they should be kept in a cage at night for their own safety. Because of their size, they should always be supervised if they are around other pets. They require more time and understanding than a “traditional” pet. Through your care & attention sugar gliders will love and bond to you. They will joyfully nap in your pocket or on your shoulder, and love to take treats from your hand!
They are indeed nocturnal, meaning that they sleep during the majority of the day and are active at night. This does not mean, however, that you will not be able to spend a good deal of time with them. They can adjust themselves somewhat to your schedule, and would be sleeping during the majority of a traditional “work day.” Towards the late afternoon and evening, they will become active and playful. This is an excellent time to bond and spend quality time with them.
Not at all! Though they do require more care and dedication than your average, “normal” pet, once the initial investment is made with supplies and the gliders have settled into your home, they will become a regular part of your family. They do have special dietary needs.
A healthy and well-cared-for sugar glider can live up to 12 – 15 years.
For the most part, sugar gliders make wonderful pets for everyone. We do recommend that younger children, below age 12, have parental supervision when handling sugar gliders, given their small size. There are also a few restrictions based on your local state laws. California, Alaska and Hawaii are among a few states that prohibit sugar glider ownership. Please check your local and state laws before considering adopting a sugar glider.
There are several basic necessities that are needed to welcome a sugar glider in your home, such as a cage, glass water bottle, glider-safe exercise wheel, and more.
It is suggested to keep more than one glider together. In the wild, gliders are community animals and they seem to be much healthier and happier while in groups in captivity. Gliders readily adapt to one another’s presence and will easily become best of friends. For breeding purposes, it is best to keep one male with two females. We do not suggest putting more than one male with only one female.
As a result of being aboreal (tree-dwelling), gliders have practically no fear of any land-dwelling creature. You will have more trouble with your other pets not liking your glider than vice-versa. That being said, gliders should always be kept in a cage, preferably on a raised stand, so that they are safe and away from other house pets like a cat or dog. When handling your glider outside of the cage, make sure the other pet(s) is either in a separate room or kept at a safe distance. You should never risk endangering or causing your stress for your sugar glider by putting them in harm’s way of another aggressive animal. Basically, it all depends on your other pet’s disposition(s).
Gliders are very dependent upon their excellent senses of smell to identify other gliders, as well as their owners. The main odor given off by gliders is the usual waste smell, but it’s not strong and if their cage is kept clean, you should never smell anything. There are products available to control the odors for your Sugar Glider’s waste, including Elimina (removes feces odors).
We should mention here, however, that the males do give off an odor before mating. While not really bad, it is a distinct odor and may take over a room for a week or two. This mating smell can be avoided if your glider is neutered. Male gliders have two scent glands that they use for marking – one is located on their belly and the other on the top of their head (which accounts for the bald spot).
When males grow accustomed to their surroundings, they will mark objects by rubbing their bellies back and forth upon the object. They will also mark any females in their colony by rubbing the female’s chin with their head.
Sugar gliders tolerate temperatures from 60°F to 90°F (15°C to 32°C); however, their preferred temperature range is 80°F to 88°F. Sugar Gliders are nest animals that require a safe place to sleep or nap, preferably one that is quite, dark, and warm. Proper nesting material can help reduce stress levels and increase the quality of sleep your pet is getting, all while optimizing their health. The temperature of the room or area should be maintained between 70-90 deg. F. The cage should be located in an area free from drafts and vents. A nest box, acrylic house, plastic dome or any type of nesting place can be used to provide your gliders with a comfortable living space. You can use a cage cover to avoid drafts from entering a cage or cage heaters to provide extra warmth.
Sugar Gliders (as far as we can tell) make 4 distinct noises. The first is the ‘get away from me noise’. This has been described as sounding similar to an electric pencil sharpener. The sound is also referred to as ‘crabbing’. You may hear this noise a lot at first, but after a month you will learn what they like and don’t like and you may never hear this again (hopefully).
The second is a happy chirp, which they make when excited or happy. The third is a quieter chirp which we have yet to find a purpose behind (other than simple communication). The fourth noise is a loud sharp barking. We believe this is some sort of call for other Sugar Gliders or just for attention from human owners.
Life Span in captivity: Sugar Gliders will live for 10-15 years if they are cared for properly.
Water should ALWAYS be available for your glider to drink. Use either a shallow water dish or a water bottle designed for small mammals. Make sure your glider(s) knows how to use a water bottle with straw before leaving them alone without another water source. Glass bottles and ceramic dishes are the most sanitary option for pet use. When outside the cage, never leave the toilet seat up! Gliders drown quickly. Make sure there are covers on all large drain holes.
Food should be available to your glider at any time of the day or night. Most people prefer to change out the food every morning after gliders have eaten throughout the night and gone back to sleep. You should have a pellet diet available at all times throughout the day, in case your glider wakes up in the middle of the day for a snack. The pellet should be removed and refreshed in the morning, or after 24 hours. Fresh foods like fruit, vegetables, Instant-HPW, Gumivore-fare, etc. should be served in the evening around the time your glider is waking up, then removed from the cage the next morning, after about 12 hours. This feeding schedule will allow your glider to eat food when it is fresh, prevent any staleness or mold growth, and keep fruit flies or smells away.
Never feed them chocolate, or allow them to eat houseplants or give them access to chemicals or toxins. Don’t feed them cat food or foods made for another animal species. Check the ingredients or guaranteed analysis of the food. If that information is not available, consider switching to a more reputable brand that provides full details on the food you are feeding. Never trust a company that doesn’t list product ingredients.
Important health information to know
Calcium deficiency can cause paralysis and even kill. Make sure that your glider has vitamin/calcium supplements.
A normal weight range is from 90 to 150 grams, with males weighing more.
Healthy eyes are black with no flecks of white or clouding. They should be bright, alert, and responsive, and not sunken in.
A healthy nose is pink and moist with no discharge or crust. Any noise while breathing is a sign to take your glider to the vet.
Gums and membranes should be pink, should be free from lesions, and not appear or feel dry.
The ear should always spring back to its original shape. No wax should be present. Look for ear mites.
Feet should be pink and soft. Check for injured toes. Trim toenails with small toenail clippers, or use a Sandy Trimmer Wheel.
Coat should be smooth without any missing patches. (This does not include the "bald spots" on males where the scent glands are).
Be aware of diseases and illnesses found in Sugar Gliders. Diabetes, pneumonia, urinary tract blockages, and other maladies are a few of the things to which gliders are susceptible. Gliders usually only show signs of ill health when they are near death, so it is important to react quickly when abnormalities are noted.
You should have a vet before any health problems occur. Ask your vet if they have treated gliders before, and what training have they had specifically geared towards treating gliders. The Vet Database may be of help to you in finding a vet who knows what he is doing where your glider is concerned. If you notice any of the following symptoms rush your glider to the vet as quickly as possible:
- Legs not moving correctly
- Feet not grasping, or stumbling
- Glider moving around blindly, banging into walls, or acting as though he cannot see
- Vomiting, diarrhea or constipation
- Self mutilation
- Losing hair in patches
- Flaky dry skin
Daily Life With A Glider
Now that you’ve got your sugar gliders home please give them a few days to get used to their new environment. After a few days now you’re ready to start the bonding process. They’re likely a bit nervous about their new surroundings, so just take it slowly. You should still make yourself a part of their daily life though brief visits, treats, and their meals, but you want to avoid overwhelming them. Once a day or two has passed, you can move on to the next steps to bond with your new friend.
That’s an excellent question, and will often depend on your glider itself. Some may be perfectly calm when you bring them home, and others may be nervous from the journey and unsure of their new surroundings. Our best advice is to “listen” to what your sugar glider is telling you, and take it at a speed that they’re comfortable with. Don’t push yourself on them, or confront them directly in their face too soon, as that can be pretty frightening at first. After all, you’re a giant to them! As they have a very strong sense of smell, a small piece of clothing with your scent in their cage can help them become used to you. They can also become used to the sound of your voice, so speaking calmly to them will help them get to know you. If they’re ready for it, after a few kind, soft-spoken words and some encouragement, a treat offered from your hand would be a great way to start. That way, you become associated with good feelings and treats, and it gives you a chance to gently pet them while they snack!
A bonding pouch can be used too, to help feel connected to you while being safe.
The ideal temperature range for a sugar glider is between 72 and 76 degrees, with about 45-50% relative humidity. They are comfortable in their sleeping pouches with a few little fleece blankets and a little sugar glider friend to cuddle. Heat rocks are should not be used! They are very dangerous, leading to dehydration, burns or death for the little glider. Caution: there are companies that would sell you heat rocks for sugar gliders, do not take their advice. These are the same companies that recommend feeding them pizza and letting them sleep in your old shirt on the cage floor.
For the new glider owner, the first time they hear a scared or annoyed sugar glider can be a surprising one. One of the most common noises when discussing sugar gliders is called “crabbing,” which can be described as sounding somewhat like an electric pencil sharpener. It signifies that they feel threatened or scared, and is usually a sign that they want someone to “back off.” It can be more common during the early periods of bonding, as they are still getting used to their surroundings, and there’s a rather large person that’s trying to handle them. As they become more comfortable, and see you as a friend, their crabbing should decrease and cease. Another interesting sound is a “barking” sound, which can be a way of communicating with their fellow gliders. It can serve as both a “here I am” as well as a “where is everyone?” It can also mean they are scared. Leaving a very dim night light on may help them feel more comfortable.
Sugar gliders in the wild have very specific dietary needs, and a glider raised in captivity is no different. There is no generic “glider food” as there is with cats and dogs. Dedicated glider lovers enjoy putting together a great diet of variety and nutrition, providing their sugar gliders with the food and vitamins they need to live long, healthy lives. Primarily, gliders need a diet that is high in protein, moderate fat, low phosphorus, loaded with fresh fruits and vegetables. TPG vitamins, which contain essential calcium important to their diet, are added to their fruits, veggies and protein.
Calcium is especially important for pet sugar gliders. As far as “eating anything,” this is not true at all. Just as with other pet animals, there are certain foods that are off-limits, which include chocolate, onions, scallions, garlic, foods high in phosphorus, and more. If someone is telling you that they can just eat a pelleted diet or “just eat pizza or whatever you have laying around,” they are misleading you. While it may not immediately kill your glider, it will have a great impact on their health, longevity and quality of life.
There are certain snacks that are safe for gliders.
Gliders especially love live mealworms! Live mealworms can be excellent for teaching tricks, reinforcing good behavior and enhancing quality bonding time. We recommend no more than 8-12 mealworms per day per glider, depending on your glider’s amount of exercise outside the cage. Feed plain yogurt treats sparingly, the Yoggies made from fruits, veggies and eucalyptus are the best! After all, you want to keep your sugar gliders from being too heavy to glide!
Sugar gliders are naturally very clean animals, grooming themselves and the members their colony regularly. A healthy sugar glider should not require bathing unless there is a particularly messy incident, such as a drink spill or other outside influence. That being said, they can be messy eaters, and so the area around their food bowl will require regular cleaning. One recommendation is to create a “food igloo” using a modified, upside-down plastic container with a hole cut in it to cover their feeding area. It helps keep the food particles contained, while also being a stylish little glider cafe!
There are four parts to cage maintenance: their cloth sleeping pouch with blankets, their accessories (toys & glider safe exercise wheel), the pan under their cage, and the cage itself. The pan under their cage should be cleaned daily, or at least every other day. You can line the pan with newspaper.
Regular cage pan cleaning reduces odor and leads to healthier gliders. Glider accessories, such as toys (glider specific, bird safe or child safe), fleece pouches, water bottles, etc., should be cleaned weekly. Fleece sleeping pouches can be washed with regular laundry detergent, do not use fabric softeners. For the cage, pan & toys, plenty of hot water is recommended (soap is fine if rinsed well), and avoid any cleaning agents that are toxic or have a strong odor. As gliders rely heavily on their sense of smell, you don’t want to irritate them with a strong, unfamiliar odor. Their cage itself should be cleaned roughly once a month, depending on the number of gliders you have. While the cage is being cleaned, you can move your gliders, in their sleeping pouch, to a small travel cage to keep them safe from other family animals. Vinegar and hot water is a non-toxic cleaning solution that will help clean your cages safely. If you have access to a pressure washer, that can also be used with gentle pressure. Gliders like their home to smell like them. So, we recommend not cleaning everything at one time. Example: clean the cage but not the toys once a month, when you clean the toys, don’t clean the cage at that time. Clean their sleeping pouch several times a week.
Using either a nail clipper designed for small animals, you can trim the tips of the glider’s nails. You will likely have to hold them securely in a towel or small pouch with one leg extended at a time. If you look closely at a glider’s nails, you can see that there is a point near the edge of their nails where it changes color, which is the “quick”. Do not cut down to this point, as that can cause bleeding. When it doubt, it’s better to trim too little than too much.
While your glider is on a flat surface, place your hands in a cup shape on either side of the glider, scoop gently under its stomach, and lift. Sugar gliders do not like to be grabbed with a grip hold.
Sugar glider health
It is true that many veterinarians have not worked with sugar gliders before, which is why it is important to research your local vets to find those with exotic animal experience. When it doubt, give them a call and ask a few questions. It will be a great relief to know you have someone available should something unfortunate happen. For a list of veterinarians with sugar glider experience, please consult Sugar Glider Help’s Vet Database.
No, a sugar glider does not need vaccinations, and is not a typical carrier of disease. They can, however, become ill for many of the same reasons that other animals do, so be aware of common dangers or signs. With a healthy diet and clean environment, a glider should rarely become ill.
Sugar gliders are a prey animal, and take care to hide their illness to as to not signal predators that they are weak. This means that it can be difficult to tell that anything is wrong until the late stages of whatever may be affecting them. A sugar glider should have perky, upright ears, wide eyes, a clean fluffy coat, and be fairly active. If your glider has drooping ears, eyes that are “droopy” or continuously half-shut, cracked fur or balding patches, appears dehydrated or is generally listless, you should consult your vet immediately.
There is a “pinch test” that you can perform with your glider to check if they’re dehydrated. Much like human skin, a glider’s skin should be fairly elastic, and snap back into place if pinched and pulled up to form a small tent. If your glider’s skin is very slow to return to its shape, or stays tented, your glider is likely dehydrated, and requires immediate medical attention. Until you are able to get them to the vet, they can be given water, or unflavored Pedialyte, through a small syringe to tide them over. If they are dehydrated, oral hydration will not be enough, get them to your vet for immediate treatment to rehydrate, and diagnose what is causing this to happen.
Sugar gliders are social animals, and are much happier in groups of two or more. A single glider is a lonely glider, and that can actually lead to depression and self-injurious behaviors. While it is possible that over-grooming and odd behavior can have other causes, it is most probable that they need a companion.
Shipping
Yes, we ship all over the world. Shipping costs will apply, and will be added at checkout. We run discounts and promotions all year, so stay tuned for exclusive deals.
It depends on where you are. Orders processed here will take 2-5 days to arrive. Overseas deliveries can take anywhere from 7-16 days. Delivery details will be provided via email.
We use all major carriers and local courier partners. You’ll be asked to select a delivery method before your pet is shipped.
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